Let me be frank. I know I can get good craft beer almost anywhere in this town, especially during Cool Brews. Hot Eats. I’m not at Amore Trattoria Italiana for the beer. I’m here, at this curiously out-of-the-way Italian restaurant in Comstock Park, because I keep hearing about its food. Beer is secondary for me tonight.
But beer isn’t secondary for Chef Jenna Arcidiacono, who co-owns the place with her husband and gives it its magic.
Before I can even ask her, she tells me that yes, of course beer goes with Italian food. “It’s not like America is the only country that drinks beer,” she says.
In Italy, Arcidiacono explains, the people eat and drink local, which means local beer from local breweries. She’s just being, well, Italian with her five-course beer pairing dinner, each portion of which is matched with a craft beer brewed within an hour and a half drive and hand picked by Jenna herself.
Some of the pairings are carefully calculated; a few “just came to her.” Most of the beers are fairly hoppy, which reflects Arcidiacono’s personal preferences as a self-described hop head, but equally reflects her impeccable sense of taste.
The combined bitterness and mild, floral sweetness in various IPAs complement the first several courses, defined by the robust flavors of strong cheeses and strong meats (homemade sausage, lamb bacon). Especially delightful is the first course, where the floral notes of Founder’s Centennial IPA harmonize with the sweetness of the sausage and then clean up the fungal tones from the mushroom. The Michigan Paradigm Pale Ale from Rockford Brewing Co. has a similar effect on the soup course, which has an incredibly rich taste. (This is where the lamb bacon comes in.)
The only pairing that breaks the trend in the first four courses is the Fragole salad, which Jenna boldly pairs with Founder’s Curmudgeon Old Ale. As the name suggests, this beer usually doesn’t play well with others because of its aggressive and slightly sour body. But Arcidiacono makes it behave, and even brings out its sweet side, by setting it with this arugula and goat cheese salad that has its own bitter-sweet combination.
After the two rounds of entrees — where the spicy-sweet combination of the Diavola’s vodka sauce and Founders Red’s Rye stands out — Arcidiacono finishes the feast by pairing like with like. She matches the sweetness of her chocolate truffles with the sweetness of Perrin’s Malted Milk Porter, and then matches the coffee core of her tiramisu with Founders Breakfast Stout. Both are perfect.
The whole thing was perfect, really. You can purchase the entire dinner in chef’s plates for $25, or you can select full portions of any course a la carte. My recommendation: try it all so you don’t miss anything, and then come back for your favorites the following night.
Learn more about Amore Trattoria Italiana and join the restaurant for its Cool Brews. Hot Eats. menu until March 1.